The Ritz: an undergound experience?

At the Ritz, as is the case with most upmarket hotels, it is perfectly possible to wander in off the street and explore the interior. On this occasion I was invited, but as someone points out to me, I can come back whenever I like to use the toilet. The restaurants and bars may be much rarer experiences, but it is always free to come here and dream.

That said, is this universe something I would dream about? As an original Paris palace and a Hemmingway haunt, it should be worthy of fantasy, but there is something a little Disney-baroque about the establishment. Almost all available space is filled with glass boxes promoting goods for sale, although very few items actually have prices attached. The long glittering corridors of commerce remind you that many visitors here have more money than taste, but occasional sights – magnificent floral displays, sweeping staircases, chandeliers - still take the breath away.

We are lead upwards to the Suite Imperiale, one of the world’s most famous hotel rooms. Glasses of champagne, gold fittings, a view across the Place Vendome, imagining who has been here before us. But the dream dies again. We can stay this evening, but only if we keep our feet on the ground.

Our destination is in another direction. “This elevator only takes one down” sang Deus in their song ‘Hotellounge’, and this is where we’re going. –3 the cellars, -2 the storerooms, -1, our stop, the kitchens. We come out into the service corridors, devoid of decoration, devoid of commerce, but a magical world.

Here is the beating, throbbing heart of the hotel. This is the realm of the men and women who keep the place clean, and those who prepare breakfasts, lunches and dinners. The kitchens are magnificent, sizzling and steaming, but all is calm. They are timeless and functional, handsome and reassuring. Tiled mosaics date back to the kitchen’s origins, polished HR-branded copper sits on shelves, and silver cutlery and pristine porcelaine waits to be whisked away.

We are here as the lucky guests of the Escoffier cooking school, but also here to work – in theory at least! We put on aprons, we cut, we prepare, we even cook a little bit, but above all we eat, drink and get spoiled.

It is a tantalising taster of this world. We are regalled by stories of rich six-hour sauces, the base of all good cooking, and glimpse the mysterious corridors leading towards the century-old secrets of the house. We are given the list of classes that offer the keys to this information, and if the prices are ritzy, but then so is the quality of the school's staff, equipment and ingredients.

And I’m tempted. I may never come back to the Ritz, but if I do, it won't be to go upstairs. I’ll take the service lift down to the basement. Not to sleep, but to cook, perchance to dream…


Lessons at the Escoffier Cooking School range from the 1 hour 'Ritzy break' to a full Masters course. For more information, see http://www.ritzparis.com/section/inscription/index.asp?id_lang=2

Something for the Weekend (11th – 13th March)

Le Rubis, un an déjà…
Nearly a year ago I wrote about a new bar that had opened in my district. I liked how the owners had renovated a forgotten 1930s location and noted their frustration about not being able to host live music. Fortunately I was proved wrong, and they have been able to organise regular events, including this Saturday night when they will be celebrating their first anniversary. I wish them many more!

See you there!

Saturday 12th
Le Rubis
140 Rue Saint Maur, M° Goncourt

Ici & Demain
Ici & Demain is a new festival which enables young artists to present their work (music, dance, theatre, plastic arts) in over 20 venues in Paris. It also enables you to experience the work of tomorrow's stars for free!

This weekend, the place to be is the Point éphémère alongside the Canal Saint Martin, but the event will continue at various locations until March 24th.

Click here for the full programme.

Romantic Gardens
The Musée de la Vie romantique is the perfect location for an exhibition on the historic romantic gardens of France, especially with Spring on its way! The event focusses on the period between 1770 and 1840, and features Monceau, Méréville, Ermenonville and La Malmaison through paintings, watercolours, drawings and other works of art.

Until July 17th
Musée de la Vie romantique
Hôtel Scheffer-Renan
16 rue Chaptal - 75009 (M° Saint-Georges, Pigalle, Blanche, Liège)
Everyday from 10am to 6pm, except Mondays and public holidays

A Ballad of Love and Death
(Pre-Raphaelite Photography in Great Britain, 1848-1875)
The aesthetic principles of the Pre-Raphaelite painters are well-known, but less is known about the photographers of the time who aspired to be recognised as artists in their own right. This fascinating exhibition shows how the two worked together and influenced each other.

Until May 29th
Musée d’Orsay
Full information can be found on the museum website.

Something for the Weekend (4th – 6th March)

With blue skies overhead, blossoming buds in the trees and March beginning, it really does feel like Spring is arriving at last. However, this weekends recommendations are all still indoor events!

First weekend of the month
One sign that winter is coming to an end is that the final On Ice party of the season will be held at the Patinoire Pailleron this Friday evening. To round things off in style, Born Bad Records, the team behind the concept (concerts and DJs on the centre of an ice-rink, with skaters doing their stuff around them), will be officiating.

10 Euros (skates included) Patinoire Pailleron 32 rue Pailleron 75 019

As usual on the first Sunday of each month, a number of museums will be offering free entry. A full list of participating establishments can be found here.

The Gaité...numérique
The big news of the week was the (re)opening (after the traditionally long delays) of the Gaité Lyrique theatre. Rather than restore it to its traditional role as a theatre, it has instead been transformed into a place to celebrate digital arts - in other words, a kind of geek paradise! However, some of the original features have been restored which provide a nice contrast to the flashier electronic gadgetry. The reopening begins with a number of free events, but it may be a little crowded this weekend as curious Parisians rediscover a forgotten part of their heritage.

Full details on http://www.gaite-lyrique.net/

Arnold Newman at Les Douches La Galerie
I recently featured the Les Douches gallery on Invisible Paris, and was delighted to be invited back for the opening of the Arnold Newman exhibition this week. Entitled 'Portraits and Abstractions', the installation features both a selection of his wonderful and hugely influential portraits (Picasso, Mondrian, Stravinsky, Dali..) alongside some of his lesser known abstract pieces.

As a bonus, the excellent Bruce Wrighton exhibition is still on display in the offices!

Until April 22nd
Les Douches la Galerie, 5 rue Legouvé 75010 M° République or Jacques Bonsergent http://www.lesdoucheslagalerie.com

A Cookbook Festival
The 104 is becoming an interesting multi-functional location, and with its now multiple cafés and restaurants, something of a foodie location. It is no surprise therefore to find a culinary festival, albeit one focussing on the written word. However, alongside the books, you'll also be able to meet chefs, follow demonstrations and of course try out the eating places at the art venue (warmly recommended by some!)

Le 104
104 rue d’Aubervilliers or 5 rue Curial 75019
Professionals on Thursday and Friday, general public on Saturday and Sunday http://festivaldulivreculinaire.fr/

Something for the Weekend (25th – 27th February)

Between You and I
The Collège des Bernardins on the left bank, completely renovated a couple of years ago, is organising more and more challenging and stimulating events. Alongside the discussions and debates, its gothic architecture is also being put to good use. The British artist Anthony McCall has created an installation from his 'solid light films' series in the old sacristy called 'Between You and I', projecting light and video to seemingly create solid objects. It provides an excellent opportunity to visit this historic space.

Collège des Bernardins
20 rue de Poissy, 75005
Until April 16th
Monday to Saturday, 10am to 6pm, Sunday and public holidays, 2pm to 6pm

Les Mômes de Belleville - Ménilmontant
Once a month on a Sunday afternoon, a local association in Belleville/Menilmontant organises a series of walks, projections and debates on a theme related to the area. This month, the subject is childhood in Belleville/Menilmontnant, and this time around it will give you the opportunity to follow two interesting events. Firstly, at 2.30pm Paris par Rues Méconnues will be leading a walk around the area on the theme (call 01.42.79.81.71 ou 06.59.96.26.93 to reserve), and secondly, at 5pm, don't miss the projection of "Le Ballon rouge", a wonderfully evocative film of the area from 1956 (described here wonderfully on Parisian fields - which also includes a link to where you can find the film on You Tube).

For more information, see http://www.labellevilloise.com/?p=1403

Tous cannibales
A curious exhibition at the Maison Rouge which is presenting a series of creations based around the theme of cannibalism. The title of the event – and its inspiration - comes from a Claude Lévi-Strauss quotation - "We are all cannibals. The simplest way to identify with another is still to eat them."

The goal of the exhibition is to find representations in contemporary visual art (photography, video, installations, sculpture, drawing and painting) and how this finds echoes in a historic perspective (illustrations, illuminated texts, engravings and ritual objects).

Feeling hungry? If so, you may also be interested to know that there is a Rose Bakery unit in the centre which does a nice brunch!

La Maison Rouge
10 boulevard de la bastille, 75012
Wednesday to Sunday, 11am to 7pm (9pm on Thursdays)
Until May 15th
http://www.lamaisonrouge.org/spip.php?article727&date=cours

Spotted by Locals Paris iPhone app: the winners!

There were several interesting answers to the question 'what is your favourite spot in Paris' - too many in fact for me to choose the winners. I decided therefore to turn to Bart Van Poll, founder of the Spotted by Locals service, who chose his three favourite entries.

As Bart said when giving me his selection, "these comments make me really curious and sound very "Spotted by Locals" although I haven't visited them. I'd love to check them out!"

Here are the three winners. If you are in Paris, why not check them out yourself?

Lost in Cheeseland
The Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud is by far my favorite spot. The little square where JP Timbaud means rue des 3 Bornes is perhaps one of my favorite local hangouts - I grab a tea at Les Petites Indécises, an afternoon snack at Jeanne A (and a wedge of cheese for later) and dinner at the newly opened Le Pearl. It's got everything a charming Parisian square should have : a fountain, cobblestones and great food!

Magda O
The place I always go to when I go to Paris is a fun little bar in Montmartre called "Au Clair de Lune" which even by the name is a place you want to visit. It's great people watching, and as cliche as it is, it really is the thing to do, or watch yourself watching others. ;o) I usually order a kir, or three, as they are quite affordable, trying out my broken French on the handsome boys. The first time I went, I was taken by the love of my life and we made out for hours. I am going back to Paris to try to make it work again and I've set our meeting point to be none other than Au Clair de Lune. I have hope.

Cocopuff 1212
The Jardin du Luxembourg has something for everyone. That bee-house is my favorite spot in there -- it's very mysterious-looking, I think. Last time I was there, I loved drinking Badoit and watching the pétanque matches -- do young people (or women) not play that sport???

Thanks to everyone who took part. I'm sorry that not everyone could be a winner, but don't forget that you can purchase the application on the iPhone App Store.

Something for the Weekend (18th - 20th February)

A reduced selection of recommendations this weekend due to holidays.

One thing I am particular sad to be missing is Dean Wareham playing the songs of Galaxie 500 at the Fleche d'Or on Saturday 19th.

I will still have time though to visit the Carnets de Voyage exhibition at the Musée de la Poste. Featuring 600 drawings and 200 extracts from travel sketch books, it offers a real world tour through sketches and water colours.

Plenty of time also to take in the Cranach et son temps show at the newly renovated Musée du Luxembourg (which many people thought had closed forever) which runs until May 23rd. If you're not going to be in Paris before that, you can still experience an online version of the exhibition.

If you have any other suggestions, please add them in the comments below.

Have a nice weekend!

Win a Spotted by Locals Paris iPhone app!

Spotted by Locals, everybody's favourite online cityguides (ok, I contribute to the Paris version..), have just made their 33 city blogs available as iPhone applications. Normally priced at €3.99 (£ 2.99, US$ 4.99), you can win a complimentary copy here.

In existence since 2008, Spotted by Locals is a network of blogs by personally selected local bloggers (“Spotters”) currently featuring 33 cities around Europe. All recommendations are written by locals who pass on tips from a personal and local perspective and keep their articles up-to-date and up-to-season.

The Paris application - like all of the other city apps - contains hundreds of recommendations, including restaurants, bars, museums, hotels or just places to relax. The beauty of the Spotted by Locals iPhone app - in comparison to most other iPhone travel apps - is that there are no surprise roaming cost bills as all information is stored in the app, meaning no internet access is required at all.

If you would like to win one of these applications, simply add a comment to this post giving your favourite Paris spot and the reason why you would add it to the Spotted by Locals cityguide. The three most original comments will win a complimentary Paris app!